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May 12th, 2011, 11:39 AM
#7
HB Super Moderator
Re: More A7 questions

Originally Posted by
VolvoHeretic
Thanks for the suggestions and topic link Altec Best.I am now going to try the 50cu in x 6.5” port and try my hand at bracing the enclosure panels, what kind of glue do you guys recommend, Elmer’s wood glue, brown hide glue, PL400 or 500 construction adhesive, epoxy?
Your Welcome !
A rule of Thumb I have always used with excellent results is for clamped joints,miters,rabbit joints,wood to wood, etc.. Use "Titebond I,II,III, Wood Glue" ! But if there is an area where you need a mechanical fastener (Screws-Nails) use the Loctite PL400 polyurethane adhesive that is the strongest adhesive I have ever come across.This is for an area that is never to be removed.Don't allow it to dry on your hands.You will be picking it and skin off for weeks!
If it is an area that has to be accessed (Access Panels) DO NOT use this adhesive there.
One thing I don't like about Gorilla is it develops air bubbles (Foams).I have used lots of different glues they all have a purpose but usually they work great for individual apps.And aren't great for everything.A good wood glue yellow or white will work great for tight joints.I dug up this thread from the "Tech Talk Forum" from Parts Express on adhesives.The vast majority say Titebond, it is also my preference as well ! I have never had a joint fail that used Titebond.As long as it is square(Joint).A joint with Titebond and Biscuit's is one of the strongest you can build. :2thumbsup: You also want a glue that won't leave any voids.Most important WRT speaker cabinets.Titebond is $ cheaper $ too.
What is the strongest wood glue (that WON'T foam up like Gorilla glue™)? - Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video, and Electronics Customer Discussion Forum From Parts-Express.com
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